GREAT DINING AT THE WALDORF ASTORIA
By Beverly Clark
I’m not a fan of hotel dining. So I was surprised recently when I was taken to lunch at Peacock Alley, and discovered that not all hotel dining should be dismissed. Located in the lobby of the fabled Waldorf Astoria, there was an enormous flower arrangement of soaring pionies at the entrance of the restaurant, with all the colors of a peacock and then some. It set the tone of graciousness that carried through into an elegant calm of Peacock Alley, an oasis from the city’s hustle and bustle.
I had to try the Waldorf salad, a new rendition of the traditional version. French touches have certainly made it healthier, lighter and even more flavorful. The mayonnaise has been replaced with yogurt, the raisins with black truffles, and the sliced apples and romaine have been sprinkled with perfectly toasted walnuts and truffle oil. The end result is hard not to devour with a passion.
Most dishes have an elegant simplicity, a trademark of chef Laurent Gras, who previously worked with Alain Ducasse. There was a tender Dover sole with a luscious white wine, mushroom and butter sauce. The Pompano with a sea urchin and green tomato reduction, served with asparagus and fennel, is hearty, yet refined. For dessert I was in awe of a towering chocolate sculpture. The Guanaja chocolate in an almond and milk emulsion decorated with gold leaf was breathtaking to behold and even better to taste.
Also at the Waldorf is Inagiku, an exciting Japanese restaurant featuring dynamic “newstyle” cuisine by master chef Haruo Ohbu. The ying and yang symbol is everywhere, a sort of spiritual prelude to the meal . Chilled, premium sakes lured me into submission.
The uni canapes were fresh sea urchin on crackers made of wheat and sea urchin, the ying and yang of creamy and crunchy, all in one bite. The lobster with cucumber and fermented bean curd paste captured the extremes of extravagant with everyday, making a marriage of flavors and textures. But I really got hooked on the sushi extravaganza,which has cherry red tuna, rich yellowtail, and a dozen other sushi favorites served with fresh wasabi root and has its own grater.
While the last little taste of wasabi was burning in my mouth, I looked up and there I saw Wagyu. Wagyu was beautiful, lean and exotically rare. I had heard of Wagyu but never before been so close. My lips touched Wagyu and a tidal wave of sensations flooded my brain. My mouth watered. I swallowed. Wagyu goes by several names, but is best known as Kobe beef. Like the juiciest filet mignon, these tender, closely grained, richly sweet, perfectly sauteed little morsels were the piece de resistance at Inagiku. There were other tastes I wanted, other experiences to explore. But leaving with a burning passion to return made it one night I will savor for many years. (AvW)
Peacock Alley, Tel: +1 (212) 872-4895
Inagiku, Tel: +1 (212) 355-0440